Wave action and longshore drift


The waves of different strengths that constantly clear against the shoreline are the primary movers and shapers of the coastline. Despite the simplicity of this process, the differences between waves and the rocks they gain result in hugely varying shapes.

The effect that waves have depends on their strength. Strong waves, also called destructive waves, arise on high-energy beaches and are typical of winter. They reduce the quantity of sediment presents on the beach by carrying it out to bars under the sea. Constructive, weak waves are typical of low-energy beaches and occur nearly during summer. They do the opposite to destructive waves and put the size of the beach by piling sediment up onto the berm.

One of the most important transport mechanisms results from wave refraction. Since waves rarely break onto a shore at correct angles, the upward movement of water onto the beach swash occurs at an oblique angle. However, the usefulness of water backwash is at right angles to the beach, resulting in the net movement of beach fabric laterally. This movement is known as beach drift Figure 3. The endless cycle of swash and backwash and resulting beach drift can be observed on all beaches. This may differ between coasts.

Probably the most important case is submarine canals at any piece along a beach, this can lead to bare beaches further along the shore.

LSD authorises create numerous landforms including recreational beaches.